How EU Research is Revolutionizing Textile Waste Recycling
Turning Textile Waste into High-Quality Products
EU-funded research is spearheading innovations that transform discarded textiles into new, high-quality materials, aiming to dramatically reduce textile waste in Europe. At the center of this effort is a pioneering factory in Waregem, Belgium, home to the world’s only “soft mechanical recycling” machine. This specialized 170-meter device gently untwists woven and knitted fibres without damaging them, unlike conventional shredding methods that weaken fibres and reduce their reuse potential.
Koen De Ruyck, general manager of PURFI Manufacturing, highlights the technology’s uniqueness and proprietary nature, emphasizing its capacity to preserve fibre strength and length, thereby enabling upcycling. Currently, less than 1% of textile recycling results in upcycled products, a gap tExtended—a major EU research project—intends to close.
The tExtended Project: A Pan-European Collaboration
Running until November 2026, tExtended brings together partners from Finland, Sweden, Belgium, France, Ireland, Latvia, Slovakia, Spain, Portugal, and Switzerland. The consortium’s ambitious goal is to cut textile waste by up to 80%, supporting the EU Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles.
Since January 2025, EU regulations mandate separate textile waste collection in member states, encouraging reuse, repair, and recycling. However, understanding how various textile wastes can replace virgin raw materials remains a challenge. Dr. Pirjo Heikkilä, project coordinator at Finland’s VTT Technical Research Centre, underscores the need for clear guidelines on sorting and processing textile waste to maximize sustainability and value retention.
From Fibre to Finished Product: Real-World Applications
In practical trials, PURFI Manufacturing tests recycled fibres for quality and durability, spinning yarn used in denim and bed linen production. A notable pilot produces denim fabrics from a 50/50 blend of production scraps and post-consumer textiles, aiming eventually for 100% recycled cotton denim.
Portuguese towel manufacturer JF Almeida integrates recycled fibres into its spinning mills, exploring optimal blends with virgin materials. Liliana Miranda from JF Almeida emphasizes that sustainability aligns with the company’s core values and customer demand, representing both environmental responsibility and commercial opportunity.
Advancing Europe’s Global Leadership in Sustainable Textiles
By significantly reducing landfill and incineration of textile waste, tExtended aims to boost Europe’s self-reliance on raw materials and enhance competitiveness in the global textile market. The project’s outcomes provide a replicable blueprint for textile circularity worldwide, showing how innovation and cross-border collaboration can convert waste into valuable resources.
Dr. Heikkilä points out that beyond consumer efforts, the textile industry holds primary responsibility for creating sustainable, long-lasting, and recyclable products, marking a key shift toward a circular economy in fashion.
Key Statistics & Insights
- 7 million tonnes: Annual textile waste in Europe sent to landfill or incineration (European Environment Agency)
- <1%: Current share of textile recycling that results in upcycling (high-quality reuse)
- Up to 80%: Target reduction in textile waste through tExtended initiatives
- Launch of separate textile collection: Mandated across EU countries since January 2025
Further Reading & Resources
This summary is based on research funded by the EU Horizon Programme and was originally published in Horizon, the EU Research and Innovation Magazine.
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